The Man of Mode

2011-01-09T03:52:00.000-08:00

The Man of Mode has moved: manofmode.com

London sales - Budd

2009-03-03T12:42:00.000-08:00

Public service announcement -- some very good deals at Budd, the seriously old school shirtmaker in the Piccadilly Arcade. They have heavily reduced a large selection of silk ties, in stripes, polka dots and woven patterns. They are also selling off lots of stiff collars (i.e., detachable collars for tunic shirts).

Bagelmania

2009-02-16T15:01:00.001-08:00

It's very hard to find good bagels in London.

Sure, the supermarkets sell tasteless rings of bread, passing them off as bagels. They're a very poor imitation of the real thing though.

The most reliable source for bagels is Brick Lane. This street in the East End has been home to successive waves of immigrants: Huguenots, Jews from central and eastern Europe, and more recently Pakistanis and Bangladeshis.

There's little evidence left of the Jewish immigrants, except for an excellent bagel shop. The shop attracts customers from all over London in search of authentic bagels. It attracts a diverse clientele, from City bankers wandering over from Bishopsgate at lunchtime, to cab drivers, to club kids from Shoreditch in search of a late night snack (the shop is open 24 hours).

This past weekend, I could have headed over to Brick Lane to satisfy my bagel cravings. However, I decided to try something a bit more challenging.

I made my own.

I won't bother giving you a detailed bagel recipe. Those of you who are industrious enough, or crazy enough, to make your own bagels will undoubtedly be able to find a recipe.

The secret to making bagels lies not in the ingredients, but in the unusual cooking technique -- they're boiled first and then baked. It's enough for our purposes to say that they're made with a normal bread dough: strong white flour, yeast, salt and water. I added a little sugar to sweeten the dough slightly.

Let the dough rise, knead it, and then you can shape it into bagels. Let these rise for another 45 minutes or so.

Carefully poach them for about 1 minute on each side. You'll have to do this in batches - make sure you allow space for them to puff up in the water.

Now bake them in a hot oven until they begin to turn a golden brown on top. I brushed them with an egg wash before baking them - you could also sprinkle some poppy seeds on them at this point.

The finished product, with some other bread rolls I made.

Served with cream cheese.

David Hare on Berlin

2009-02-15T10:42:00.000-08:00

Anyone with an interest in Germany and its history should rush to get tickets for David Hare's reading on Berlin, at the National Theatre.

This hour-long meditation on the city is based on the author's experiences there over many years, most recently during the filming of The Reader (the new film with Kate Winslet, for which Hare wrote the screenplay).

Hare's monologue is incredibly broad ranging, touching on history, politics, theatre, film, architecture and food. He moans about the niceness of the people, and that Berlin today is all about lifestyle; that history and politics are forgotten there.

Not such a bad thing. I would rather live in Berlin today than in 1961 . . . or 1948 . . . or 1945 . . . or 1938 . . . or 1933 . . . or 1923 . . . or 1919 . . .

Berlin - A reading by David Hare, National Theatre, London. Directed by Stephen Daldry.

Kiton at Saks Fifth Avenue

2009-02-13T23:44:00.000-08:00

Saks Fifth Avenue has been trying for years to create a Kiton boutique in its New York flagship store.

For the uninitiated, Kiton is an Italian clothing company that makes some of the finest quality suits in the world. Their clothes are handmade by a small army of tailors in Kiton's workrooms just outside Naples. Prices are very high: $7000 for a suit and $1200 for trousers.

Saks unveils their new Kiton store on Monday. Unfortunately, their timing is terrible, opening it in the midst of the deepest economic troubles since the Great Depression. Saks's sales fell 23.7% last month and they are laying off 9% of their staff. Like many other retailers, they're being forced to offer discounts of as much as 70% off just to move merchandise out of the door.

Saks is still talking a good game, and undoubtedly there will still be some customers for these clothes in New York, but they must be worried.

Story in today's NY Times.

Prague

2009-02-12T13:21:00.001-08:00

Back from a few days in Prague, and I thought I would share some photographs from my trip.

Keep Calm and Carry On

2009-02-04T14:58:00.001-08:00

The poster has become a bit of a cliche in Britain today, appearing on countless kitchen walls, but the BBC News has an interesting story today about its origins.

It was produced during the Second World War by the Ministry of Information, to be distributed only in the event of the gravest national catastrophe. Two other posters were also made, with the same red background and King George VI crown: "Freedom is in Peril" and "Your Courage, Your Cheerfulness, Your Resolution Will Bring Us Victory".

Apparently the poster was forgotten until 2000, when a bookseller from Northumberland found a copy in a box of books that he acquired at auction. His customers clamoured to buy the poster, and he now sells thousands of copies of it.

BBC News story

I LEGO N.Y.

2009-02-03T12:40:00.000-08:00

A wonderful series of sketches, doodles and visual puns - all inspired by New York and all made of Lego. They are the work of Christoph Niemann, an artist whose work has appeared in many magazines, including the New Yorker.

More pictures available from the NY Times

The artist's website

Snow

2009-02-02T10:26:00.001-08:00

The heaviest snow in London in 18 years, with an accumulation of about 8 inches.

Oslo or Vienna - or even New York - would easily cope with that much snow. But without the infrastructure to clear the snow, it brought London to a complete standstill. The trains and buses were out of action for most of the day, and the airports were closed.

It felt like a "snow day" off work for the entire city. Many people took the day off because they couldn't get to the office on public transport, and the centre of town was extremely quiet. Parks were filled with adults making snowmen and throwing snowballs.

The courtyard of Burlington House, home of the Royal Academy.

A Land Rover, the best form of transport in this weather.

Outside a local pub.

A cultural weekend

2009-02-01T18:14:00.000-08:00

A cultural weekend in London.

On Friday, the new Palladio exhibition at the Royal Academy. In the evening, the Mariinsky Theatre (the company formerly known as the Kirov) performing Tchaikovsky's Queen of Spades, conducted by Gergiev. A sell-out show at the Barbican.

Saturday morning at the Wallace Collection.

On Sunday, the new film Frost/Nixon, adapted from the stage production at the Donmar.

End of an era

2009-01-31T08:49:00.000-08:00

Image from 21 Club website: www.21club.com

The last restaurant in New York that requires men to wear a tie has finally given in and changed its dress code.

Jackets are still required, but while ties are "preferred" at dinner they are no longer mandatory. A sad development -- it was nice to know that there was one last holdout against casual dress -- but I suppose it was inevitable.

Alan Flusser, quoted in the NY Times, huffed "I don't think this sends the right message to young people."

The Man of Mode returns

2009-01-31T08:45:00.000-08:00

After computer problems throughout December, travel over Christmas, and a busy January, the Man of Mode returns.

Krakow

2008-12-14T04:12:00.001-08:00

A few more photographs from the Man of Mode's recent trip to Hungary and Poland. This time, some images from Krakow.

More Soviet era statues

2008-12-12T12:19:00.000-08:00

After my previous post of Socialist Realism and the statue park in Budapest, here are a couple more communist era statues.

Marx and Engels, in the Alexanderplatz in Berlin. In the background stands the partially-demolished Palast der Republik, the former parliament building of the DDR which also housed restaurants and a bowling alley. It stands on the site of the Stadtschoss, the Prussian-era royal palace in Berlin, which was badly damaged during the war and what was left was pulled down after the war. There are now plans to rebuild the palace at the same location.

Lenin, in October Square in Moscow. Apparently this is the last remaining public statue of Lenin in the Russian capital.

There is also a statue park in Moscow with various Soviet era works. I'll post some pictures of that in due course.

Does James Bond hate architecture?

2008-12-12T11:51:00.000-08:00

An article from the Guardian on the architecture of James Bond, describing Bond's hatred of modern architecture in particular. It also argues that Quantum of Solace has the best architecture of any Bond film.

Guardian article

Paul Stuart

2008-12-10T14:51:00.000-08:00

Paul Stuart store exterior, photo from NY Times

The NY Times has a story about Paul Stuart, the clothier and haberdasher on Madison Avenue. It's one of the Man of Mode's favourite shopping destinations in New York.

The store is next door to Brooks Brothers, and it feels like a more stylish, more upscale version of Brooks. The shop is decorated with antiques, including a large Flemish tapestry next to the entrance. The Times describes the overall appearance as being like "the giant walk-in closet of an Illuminati Grand Master".

Their selection of ties is stupendous, with an especially good selection of silk knit ties in every possible colour. They also have an excellent range of bow ties, if that's your thing.

Paul Stuart suits are cut in an elegant hybrid of Anglo American styles. The jackets have some shape at the waist, but are still relaxed and not too fitted. Most have side vents. The trousers are the best cut I've found in ready-to-wear, with a very elegant line -- again, falling somewhere between the looser American cut and narrower English style.

Cashmere navy blazer from Paul Stuart

Notably, their suits are available in the widest selection of sizes in the City. Not only do they offer short and tall sizes, but they also have medium-tall (something I've never seen elsewhere) and extra-tall. They also stock jackets in odd-numbered sizes, so if a 41 medium-tall fits you best, this is the place to go.

A couple of criticisms.

First, the article mentions the sweaters and ties in odd colour combinations. I find that their autumn/winter collections are always very nicely put together, but their spring/summer clothes invariably have some real clangers. It's usually strange mixtures of pastel colours, which might be OK in Palm Beach (probably their target demographic), but which don't appeal to me at all.

Second, the staff in the store can be very overbearing, even downright pushy. Most of the sales staff are incredibly charming and helpful, but I've had bad experiences with a few who were much too aggressive.

The store design doesn't help in this regard, making it difficult to browse without the help of a salesman. Downstairs, all the ties are all in glass cabinets -- although I've always found the sales staff here to be excellent. Upstairs where the suits are kept, the salesmen hover by the top of the stairs, and the floor manager immediately assigns a salesman to each customer who arrives. There are some first rate salesmen here, but there are a few who are way too pushy for a store like this. The hard sell, used car salesman approach doesn't work here, and Paul Stuart needs to take a closer look at a few of the people who work upstairs.

NY Times article - "Restraint feels right, doesn't it"

Paul Stuart
45th and Madison
New York
www.paulstuart.com

Socialist Realism

2008-12-08T14:43:00.001-08:00

Like many other cities in eastern Europe during the communist era, Budapest was filled with socialist realist statues. These works glorified the proletariat and the Red Army "liberators" of Hungary, as well as the usual statues of Marx and Lenin.

Most of these statues were pulled down quickly after the fall of the communist regime in 1989. Hardly surprising after Hungary's experience under Soviet domination, including the Russian invasion of 1956.

Most cities destroyed their old communist statues, melting them down to make something more useful. However, Budapest had the foresight to preserve the old sculptures and put them on show in a statue park outside the city.

The park is marketed as pure communist kitsch, but I think that sells it short. There is a certain grandeur to these statues -- many of them are huge. But some of them are also successful as works of art, despite the political message that inspired them. I think my favourites are the first one shown above, which is an incredibly powerful image, and the last one below, with the repeating characters of the proletarian militia.

Budapest

2008-12-07T23:24:00.000-08:00

A few photographs from the Man of Mode's trip to Budapest. It's a wonderful city, with grand Hapsburg era buildings befitting its former status as the second capital of the Austro-Hungarian empire. There are coffee houses, sumptuous thermal baths and a first rate opera house - where I saw a excellent production of Aida.

Szechenyi Baths, located in the City Park.

Hungary has many fanatical chess players, and some of the thermal baths even have poolside chessboards. These characters are fitting in an impromptu match at the railway station, with a chessboard propped up on the ticket barrier.

A furniture shop in the Jewish quarter.

Puppets for sale in the Christmas market.

Thank you to Heavy Tweed Jacket and The Epic

2008-12-07T12:45:00.000-08:00

Just returned from my travels. I'll be posting some photographs in due course.

I was catching up on email and taking a quick look at a few blogs, and I noticed that Heavy Tweed Jacket has added The Man of Mode to his list of recommended blogs. Many thanks - much appreciated.

Edited to add:

Also many thanks to M. Lane from The Epic, for his generous reference to The Man of Mode. For anyone not familiar with that site, I highly recommend it.

Away

2008-11-28T21:47:00.000-08:00

The Man of Mode is travelling in Mitteleuropa for the next week or so.

Castletown and the Irish Georgian Society

2008-11-28T14:39:00.000-08:00

A good article in yesterday's NY Times about the Irish Georgian Society, which has been restoring Georgian architectural treasures across Ireland for the past 50 years. Over the years, the IGS has battled indifference, and sometimes outright hostility, in its attempts to preserve the country's Georgian heritage.

At the head of the article is a photograph of Ireland's largest Palladian house, Castletown, in County Kildare (shown above, photograph from the NY Times).

NY Times article: A 50-Year Battle to Save Old Ireland

Palladian Days

2008-11-25T23:18:00.000-08:00

The Villa Cornaro, which I wrote about in my last post, is the subject of a charming book written by its American owners -- Palladian Days: Finding a New Life in a Venetian Country House.

Sally and Carl Gable bought the villa in the late 1980s and keep it as a second home. Despite the grandeur of the house, the book is a surprisingly down-to-earth account of buying and renovating the property and living in an Italian village.

The book successfully combines several popular genres. It's the story of a lawyer and his wife from Atlanta moving to a small village in Italy and dealing with the colourful aspects of life there - think Peter Mayle transplanted from Provence to the Veneto. It's also a story about property renovation, and all the frustrations, expense and eventual pleasure of doing up an old house. In addition to the usual troublesome builders and dodgy plumbing, there are nests of scorpions and 450 year old frescos to deal with. Finally, it's a travel guide to Venice and the surrounding region, with some recipes thrown in for good measure.

It's not a heavyweight architectural book by any measure, but well worth a read to see how a modern American couple actually live in one of Palladio's villas.

Available from Amazon.com

Villa Cornaro

2008-11-25T14:45:00.001-08:00

Image from Hans A. Rosbach

After visiting a couple of Palladio's smaller villas, we turn to one of his grander houses.

The Villa Cornaro, located in the village of Piombino Dese just outside Venice, was built in 1552-53. Palladio's great innovation on the Villa Cornaro is the two-story portico and loggia, with its double set of columns under a projecting pediment. It's the most distinctive feature of the house, and Palladio used it to great effect on both the front and back of the villa.

It's a highly impressive device, signaling the importance of the house and its owner to the rest of the village. But it does more than that. It visually pulls together the upper and lower floors of the house into a unified whole. It's also practical, creating a comfortable, shady space.

Image from www.boglewood.com

This was absolutely radical when Palladio used it here for the first time. It has since become such a standard architectural device that it's easy to forget the significance of Palladio's invention.

Many of the grand antebellum plantation houses in the South were built in a Palladian style, and the two-story portico and loggia was a recurring motif. This is a particularly fine example: Drayton Hall, in Charleston, South Carolina, built in 1742.

Palladio's design is hugely flexible and adaptable. Drayton Hall took it largely verbatim from Palladio, but with a pair of steps leading up the the portico instead of the single wide set of steps on the Villa Cornaro. However, here's another version of the same motif, which has been adapted extensively but where Palladio's influence is still recognizable. Here, the portico is curved, with no pediment. There's a single run of double-height columns instead of the separate columns on the first and second floors. The White House, south facade. Built 1792-1800.

Made in England?

2008-11-24T11:27:00.000-08:00

The standards for labeling products as "Made in England" seem to be amazingly loose.

The John Lewis department store has just withdrawn from sale a GBP 350 suit that it advertised as "Made in England." The suit was made by Wensum, a UK-based suit manufacturer.

Turns out that the suit wasn't really Made in England. Apparently, only the sleeves and buttons were sewn on here - the rest of the suit was made overseas. When this came to light, John Lewis did the right thing and pulled it from sale.

Incidentally, Wensum is little-known to consumers, but it's a major producer of men's suits. It makes a lot of the made-to-measure suits sold by by UK retailers - from the very high end stores down to the lower end shops with a M-T-M offering.

From the Daily Telegraph - John Lewis drops misleading "Made in England" suit

Villa Poiana

2008-11-20T12:32:00.000-08:00

Image by Hans A. Rosbach

After the Villa Saraceno, another of Palladio's smaller villas.

This is another early design from Palladio, from 1548-49, and is perhaps my favourite of all his buildings. It's a very restrained, even spare, classical design. It's so stripped back that it almost looks modern - or even postmodern, with its exaggerated use of simple shapes.

The only decorative element on the facade is the central arch with five oculi above the doorway. It's a simplified version of the design that Palladio frequently used for windows, with an arched central light flanked by columns or pilasters and a light on either side. Palladio used it so often that, even though he didn't invent it, it has became known as a "Palladian window".

As an example of Palladio's enduring appeal, here's a house in California directly inspired by the Villa Poiana.

David Pierce Hohmann architects

Villa Saraceno

2008-11-19T09:31:00.000-08:00

Image from The Landmark Trust

From Palladio's grandest villa, La Rotonda, to one of his most modest, Villa Saraceno. It's essentially a farmhouse, with the attic level of the house originally used as a granary. The photograph below shows various outbuildings (not by Palladio) next to the villa.

The house dates from the 1540s and is one of Palladio's earliest works.

Image from La Repubblica

Even though it's a much simpler building than La Rotonda, the design has been enormously influential. The basic design has been used for a number of country houses in England, and there are countless town halls and post offices in the United States whose lineage can be traced back to Villa Saraceno. The picture below is the post office in Salem, Massachusetts.

Villa Saraceno is unique among Palladio's villas in that it's possible to rent the house for a holiday. The building had fallen into disrepair and was acquired in 1989 by the Landmark Trust, a British preservation charity. The Trust restored the house and turned it into a holiday home that can be rented by the week.

The Landmark Trust

Sailing to Byzantium

2008-11-17T06:56:00.000-08:00

The Byzantine Empire was a superpower of the Middle Ages.

The city of Byzantium was re-founded by Constantine I in 330 AD as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the city (re-named Constantinople) became a major commercial, cultural and religious centre. It controlled an empire that stretched around the Mediterranean, encompassing swathes of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa.

The empire finally came to an end in 1453 when Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks.

The Royal Academy in London currently has a major exhibition on Byzantium that is well worth a visit. One word of advice. It gets crowded at the weekend, and many of the exhibits such as jewelry, coins, metalwork and icons are quite small and hard to see among the crowds. I recommend visiting during the week or getting there early at the weekend.

In connection with the exhibition, I'm posting a few photographs that I took in Byzantium/Constantinople/Istanbul. These are all shots of Hagia Sophia, the Byzantine church that became a mosque under the Ottomans, and which was subsequently turned into a museum under the secular Republic of Turkey.

Byzantium 330-1435
Until March 22, 2009
Royal Academy of Arts
London

Villa Rotonda and its progeny

2008-11-16T03:12:00.001-08:00

Image from www.boglewood.com

Palladio's best known building is the Villa Almerico-Capra, also known as "La Rotonda". It's an imposing building, situated on a hillside outside Vicenza. Construction began in 1566 and continued after Palladio's death in 1580.

Image from www.cartage.org.lb

The layout of the villa is remarkably simple. As seen in the plan below, the house is a perfect square. Each side of the square has a matching facade, with steps leading up to a portico with columns and pediment. Inside, the floorplan is symmetrical, with the entrances on the four sides of the house leading into a circular central hall, topped by a dome.

Image from www.palladiomoderno.com

Palladio's design has been hugely influential. Several houses have been built in more or less direct imitation of La Rotonda, and many more have adapted design elements from it.

In England, Mereworth Castle in Kent was designed by Colen Campbell in the 1720s.

A more recent design, again directly inspired by La Rotonda, is Henbury Hall in Cheshire, built in 1984.

Other houses that do not attempt to copy La Rotonda directly, but are still very recognizable as her offspring include:

Chiswick House in West London, designed by Lord Burlington and William Kent and built in 1726-29.

Monticello, near Charlottesville, Virgina, designed by Thomas Jefferson. Construction began in 1768 and was finally completed in 1809 when the dome was erected.

Finally, as proof of La Rotonda's significance, a scaled-down version of the house appears at Legoland.

Palladio at 500

2008-11-15T02:02:00.000-08:00

November marks the 500th anniversary of the birth of Andrea Palladio, the greatest and most influential architect of all time.

Palladio's designs are firmly grounded in the "classical language of architecture", but he adapted and manipulated the principles of architecture inherited from ancient Rome (he knew relatively little about Greek architecture). He designed many palazzi, villas and churches in a small area of north-east Italy, in and around Vicenza and Venice. However, his influence spread rapidly, driven in large part by the publication in 1570 of his monumental treatise, I Quattro Libri dell'Architettura, or the Four Books of Architecture.

The Man of Mode will be posting about some of Palladio's designs and the way he influenced later buildings in England and America.

Brooks Brothers New York

2008-11-13T14:08:00.000-08:00

Brooks Brothers announces the launch of "Brooks Brothers New York Gentleman." I suppose after they started selling pens, watches and such like, this was the inevitable next step.

They describe this new fragrance as "a fresh expression of classic citrus aromatic notes, subtle iris and wet greens with a smooth, woody finish."

I have no idea what it smells like, but the packaging design is hideous. The name is terrible too.

They should stick with Royall Lime, which Brooks has sold for years. It's a classic, and resolutely unflashy.

Remembrance Sunday

2008-11-09T15:05:00.000-08:00

Some photographs from the Remembrance Sunday service on Whitehall.

Flughafen Tempelhof

2008-11-08T02:07:00.000-08:00

Following on from my earlier post about Cold War design, last week saw the demise of one of the true survivors of the Cold War.

Flughafen Tempelhof, which served as Berlin's airport for many years and sustained West Berlin during the Soviet blockade of the city, closed all operations on October 30, 2008.

Tempelhof was the world's oldest continuously-operated airport. The site was used as an airfield in the early days of aviation, even before the First World War. It was designated as an airport in 1923, and the German national airline Lufthansa was founded there in 1926.

The original terminal building was demolished as part of Albert Speer's plan for the rebuilding of Berlin. Construction began on the new terminal in 1936, a huge curved building clad in limestone. Aircraft can taxi up close to the terminal, under a wide canopy that protects passengers from the elements.

Inside, the building is in keeping with the design orthodoxy of the Nazi period, but its simple lines and restrained classicism have aged remarkably well.

Some of the original ornamentation from the building has been preserved - here, a giant sculpture of an eagle.

During the Battle of Berlin, Tempelhof's German commander refused to obey orders to dynamite the building. The airport was seized by the Red Army, which turned it over to the US military when the city was divided into four occupation zones.

In June 1948, the Russians blockaded the western-controlled area of Berlin. Faced with the alternative of abandoning the city to the Soviet bloc, the western powers achieved an amazing feat. For the next 11 months, US and British forces supplied the 2.5 million inhabitants of West Berlin with all the necessities of life by airlifting everything into Tempelhof.

US Air Force C-47 aircraft unloading supplies at Tempelhof:

Throughout the Cold War, Tempelhof remained an important air link to West Berlin for both commercial and military flights. Even after many commercial flights moved out to Tegel airport in the 1970s, Berliners retained tremendous affection for the airport that saved West Berlin during the Airlift.

More recently, Tempelhof became popular with business travellers on short-haul flights, given its proximity to the city centre. The airport is practically within walking distance of central Berlin - only a few stops on the subway or a 10 minute cab ride away.

In the late 1990s, the city, state and federal authorities decided to consolidate all flights to Berlin at a single airport, Schoenefeld, and to close Tempelhof and Tegel. Many Berliners objected, and there were lengthy political and legal maneuvers to keep Tempelhof open. The last-ditch attempt was a city-wide referendum, which attracted over a 60% vote to keep the airport open. Unfortunately, procedural rules required not only a majority of the ballots cast, but also that these votes had to represent more than 25% of all eligible voters in the city - a level that they failed to attain.

Tempelhof closed on October 30 after a huge farewell party. Just before midnight, two historic planes took off, a Junkers Ju 52 and an Airlift-era Douglas DC-3. At midnight, the runway lights were turned off for the last time.

Auf Wiedersehen Tempelhof.

A fixer-upper to end them all

2008-11-06T12:41:00.000-08:00

From the Home and Garden section of the NY Times (all photographs from the NY Times).

This Beaux-Arts pavillion was designed by Stanford White in 1902 for John Jacob Astor IV. This long, low-lying classical building was originally the guest lodge for the Astor estate, but the main house was demolished in the 1940s. It remained an Astor residence into the late 1950s, when the family donated the building to the Catholic church and it became a convent and nursing home.

The fabric of the house decayed until it was bought in 2004, and the new owners began a massive renovation project.

The results are stunning.

The house is decorated in a simple manner with neutral colours, allowing the architecture to shine.

The indoor tennis court, with an iron and glass vaulted ceiling.

NY Times article

Raise a glass!

2008-11-05T13:09:00.000-08:00

Painting by Christina Bingle,www.subtlecolours.com

Raise a glass to the gin and tonic, 150 years old today. According to BBC News, it's the world's first cocktail, created in 1858.

Cold War Modern

2008-11-02T03:36:00.000-08:00

The Victoria & Albert Museum continues with the next installment in its series of thematic design exhibitions. Previous shows were devoted to Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernism. The new exhibition, moving in chronological order, is Cold War Modern 1945-1970.

The show weaves together the history of the period with art, architecture, interior design, film, fashion and technology.

It begins with the rebuilding of Europe after World War II and the hopes and anxieties for the continent as the battlelines between east and west were already being drawn. There's a particularly fine architect's rendering of an (unbuilt) Stalinist gothic skyscraper, seven of which were actually built around Moscow.

The exhibition them covers the thaw after the death of Stalin. This period saw improvements in living standards in the Soviet bloc and an artistic reawakening. The US and Soviet governments held major exhibitions in 1959. The Russians staged an exhibition in New York showing off their high artistic and technological achievements, while the US put on the Trade and Cultural Fair in Moscow with displays of automobiles, kitchen appliances and clothing to demonstrate the benefits of the market economy to ordinary men and women.

The 1960s saw the peak of Cold War tensions, with the building of the Berlin Wall in 1961, followed by the Cuban Missile Crisis. The exhibition highlights from this period are a series of the original set design drawings by Ken Adam for Doctor Strangelove and the early Bond movies.

The exhibition covers the space race particularly well, from a model of Sputnik to film clips from 2001: A Space Odyssey. There's also a cleverly-done section on communications towers (like the one in Berlin shown below).

The exhibition loses its way a bit towards the end as it moves into late 1960s utopianism. The presentation, and I think also the subject matter, is less compelling than the earlier subjects.

Cold War Modern: Design 1945-1970 is at the V&A until January 11, 2009.
Exhibition website

The perils of translation

2008-11-01T02:40:00.000-07:00

A fantastic story from the BBC. Traffic officials in Swansea in Wales were putting up a new road sign, and needed it translated into Welsh. They sent the English text off to the translator by email, and when they received a response by email they copied the Welsh wording onto the sign.

Unfortunately, the email from the translator said in Welsh: "I am not in the office at the moment. Please send any work to be translated." And that's what ended up on the sign.

BBC News

British Style Genius - The Country Look

2008-10-29T13:28:00.000-07:00

BBC2 broadcast the latest episode in their series British Style Genius. This week was devoted to "The Country Look". It was a bit of a jumble of ideas, skipping from topic to topic:

The Queen as style icon

Barbour jackets

Tweed - traditional tweeds and Dashing Tweeds

Tartan - from traditional kilts to Vivienne Westwood

Also riding coats, trench coats and Laura Ashley. Worth watching on BBC iPlayer if you're in the UK.

Dressing for the downturn

2008-10-26T07:47:00.001-07:00

A well-timed ad from Brooks Brothers, sent out to their email distribution list. It re-uses one of their old advertisements from the 1940s.

They recommend buying conservatively-cut, well-made clothes -- things that are made to last.

Good advice then, and good advice now.

The Fashion Report of 1920

2008-10-26T04:53:00.000-07:00

The NY Times ran an intriguingly titled story on The Fashion Report of 1920.

It's all about the fashion for traditional clothing and accessories that are functional, even utilitarian: "the auto mechanic jumpsuits, the thermal undershirts, the engineer’s boots, the moccasins and tin cloth jackets and gum boots that so neatly marry form and function that no one has found the need to alter their design for many decades."

It's another example of the Gray Lady getting to the party late, reporting on a trend that's been in full swing for quite some time.

The Times also conflates, I think, three distinct styles.

There's traditional workware - Dickies shirts and carpenter trousers, Red Wing boots and Klein Tools handyman bags (which have lately become fashionable to use as a briefcase or overnight bag).

In contrast, there's traditional outdoor gear from LL Bean and Filson, or for the more British leaning, Barbour jackets and Hunter wellies.

Finally, there's a nod to classic Americana, with basic Levi's jeans and white T shirts. Best quote in the piece came from designer Michael Bastian, a fan of LL Bean Camp Moc shoes, Champion gym shorts, Levi's 501s and Randolph Engineering aviator sunglasses made to US military spec:

"Certain things are just so perfect I can't do it any better. There are things that are perfection in their genericness. I’m not going to touch them. It's like Coke. You can't improve it. I give it to you. You win."

Tom Ford at Bergdorf Goodman

2008-10-19T03:28:00.001-07:00

A few images from Bergdorf Goodman's men's store on 5th Avenue.

I'm not usually a fan of Tom Ford: this NY Times article from last year sums up all that is wrong with the brand. However, a couple of things in Bergdorf's windows caught my eye.

First, a very simple 3 piece striped suit. Apart from the exuberantly-styled pocket handkerchief here, it's an absolute classic.

Second, a tweed 3 piece country suit - although I don't expect this suit would ever get near a field or a pair of muddy boots.

A closer look. It's an extremely bold pattern -- enough to do Huntsman or Richard Anderson proud -- but the muted colours turn it into a very elegant, even subtle, outfit. Not too keen on the bowtie, but again that's down to Bergdorf's sylists.

Robes in NY

2008-10-19T03:20:00.000-07:00

After my previous post on the rich selection of robes available on Jermyn Street, New Yorkers no longer have to feel left out. Turnbull & Asser's store on 57th between 5th and Madison has a good selection of silk robes. There's a blue number with polka dot facings and cuffs in the window - quite similar to the Hackett one in my previous post.

The Cadillac of Burgers

2008-10-19T02:45:00.000-07:00

P.J. Clarke's saloon opened in 1884 in a plain brick building at the corner of 55th and 3rd Avenue. The building is a holdout. As 3rd Avenue became lined with office blocks in the 1960s, the stubborn owners refused to sell to the developers, with the result that a skyscraper was built around it.

It's long been a favourite eating and drinking den, and it still serves one of the best burgers in the city. Nat King Cole declared their bacon cheeseburger "the Cadillac of burgers".

There's a long bar in the front, which gets packed on weeknights but is a little more manageable at the weekend. The restaurant is in the back, with red-and-white checked tablecloths and old paintings and engravings on the walls.

Frank Sinatra was a regular, and Ernest Borgnine and Ethel Merman got engaged here (the marriage only lasted two months). Popeye Doyle ate here in The French Connection II. And in the latest confirmation of the bar's old-school credentials, in the Mad Men television series the staff of the Sterling Cooper ad agency drink here.

P.J. Clarke's
915 Third Avenue
New York

Back from NY

2008-10-18T03:08:00.000-07:00

Dawn breaking over the Hudson and Midtown Manhattan, taken from the Jersey City waterfront

The Man of Mode returns from a trip to NY and will be posting again very soon.

Goodwood Revival 2008

2008-09-24T13:57:00.000-07:00

Vintage cars, vintage planes, vintage clothes . . . The Goodwood Revival has it all.

As I wrote last week, the Goodwood Revival recreates the golden age of motor racing from the 1950s and 60s. The event is held on the motor circuit at Goodwood House, just outside Chichester.

It's a wonderfully atmospheric event. Visitors are strongly encouraged to dress in period costume, and many of the spectators make tremendous efforts to dress the part. Only pre-1966 vehicles are admitted onto the grounds, which helps give the whole event a terrific time warp quality. Spectators who arrive in their own vintage cars can park close to the action, but modern vehicles must be left in remote car parks.

The main event is motor racing, with 16 vintage car races spread over the weekend. There are also lots of other attractions, including displays of vintage aircraft, a fairground with a carousel and helter skelter, and a huge market selling vintage clothes and car accessories.

One of the highlights is a flypast by the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight. This unit of the Royal Air Force includes Spitfire and Hurricane fighters and a Lancaster bomber.

Many of the spectators are turned out in period clothes. Here's a selection of pictures from around the grounds.

The principal race of the weekend is the Royal Automobile Club TT Celebration. This is a one-hour long race for closed-cockpit GT cars from the early 1960s.

Ferrari 250GTO and Jaguar E-type lowdrag coupe

Aston Martin DB4GT

Racing can be a dangerous sport, especially with vintage cars. Despite many of the cars being highly valuable, the races can get very competitive. There was a heart stopping moment when Jochen Mass, the German Formula 1 veteran, flipped over his Lancia-Ferrari D50A when coming out of the chicane. The marshalls quickly pulled him out of the car to safety.

The Man of Mode belongs to the Goodwood Road Racing Club, which gives him access to the paddock. Here are a few shots of Ferraris in the paddock, just before their races.

Fashion secrets from the new Japanese PM

2008-09-23T13:06:00.000-07:00

A curious story from Reuters today about Taro Aso, the newly-elected head of Japan's Liberal Democratic Party (and presumptive new prime minister).

Aso, who hails from a wealthy family of industrialists, has a reputation for being well-dressed. His tailor has just revealed the secret of the immaculate creases in Aso's trousers: tiny lead weights sewn into the hems to help the cloth hang smoothly.

According to Aso's tailor, Seiichiro Moriwaki, "It's something that's often done with ladies' clothes, to put little weights in the hem, but it's highly unusual for gentlemen's outfits."

According to Reuters, the idea for the weights came up in a discussion between the two, who call one another Taro and Seiichi, but it never caught on with other customers. It's a trick also used by French design house, Chanel, who traditionally put a narrow chain in the hem of women's jackets.

(photo above from BBC News)

Goodwood Revival - coming soon

2008-09-14T10:43:00.001-07:00

The Goodwood Revival is coming up next weekend. It's a unique mix of historic motor racing and vintage fashion, recreating the golden days of motorsport at Goodwood in the 1950s and 60s. Here are a few photos I took the last time I went (all photos are my own, except the fashion ones which are borrowed from the Goodwood website).

The races include 1950s Grand Prix, early Formula 1 and GT cars. There are plenty of unusual (and valuable) cars being thrashed around the track, including Shelby Cobras, Ferrari 250 GTOs and Aston Martin DB4GT Zagatos.

The entire weekend is done in period style, with many spectators dressed in vintage clothes. The racecourse is closed to modern vehicles, and many visitors arrive in classic cars (a couple of particularly choice examples shown at the bottom).

A sunny day in London

2008-09-14T10:37:00.000-07:00

Readers in London may have noticed an unusual climatic phenomenon this weekend.

The sun was . . . shining.

After a damp and grey June, July and August, it felt like the first day of summer. Alas, I fear it will simultaneously be the last day of summer.

Land Rover at 60

2008-09-13T16:00:00.000-07:00

The Land Rover burst into the world sixty years ago. The chief designer of the Rover car company designed it in 1948 while at his farm on the island of Anglesey, off the coast of Wales. He was inspired by the World War II Willys jeep, but created a sturdy workhorse that is uniquely British.

Since then, they've been used in the toughest conditions around the world. Mechanically simple, they were designed to be serviced in the field and to run on the poorest quality fuels.

The manufacturer has developed other models, including the upmarket Range Rover, the Discovery, and the Freelander. However, the classic Land Rover (now labeled the Defender) is the definitive model, and remains very close in appearance to the original 1948 design.

Here are some photos I've taken of Land Rovers on my recent travels and around London.

The Modern Pantry

2008-09-07T07:13:00.001-07:00

This Georgian building in Clerkenwell has lain empty for years. It's a handsome building, not pretty, but with a sturdy appearance in keeping with the industrial past of the neighbourhood.

It's just been renovated and has emerged from the scaffolding as The Modern Pantry, a stylish new cafe and restaurant. Anna Hansen, formerly of Providores on Marylebone High Street, is in the kitchen.

There's an informal cafe downstairs, a soon-to-open restaurant upstairs, and a cake shop at the back of the cafe. I haven't eaten there yet, but have only tried a few of the goodies from the cake shop.

The first reviews have been extremely promising. It's fusion cooking, but without any identifiable source or style. The menu includes a sugar-cured prawn omelette; onglet steak marinated in miso; and chorizo, date and feta fritters (which one reviewer described as falafel for meat eaters).

Robes

2008-09-06T08:36:00.000-07:00

As we move into Autumn and the evenings get chillier, the Man of Mode ponders wearing a robe around the house. While a towelling bathrobe is practical when stepping straight out of the shower, it's not a very stylish choice for relaxing at home. Fortunately, there are much more sophisticated alternatives available.

A stroll around Jermyn Street reveals many possibilities.

Gingham robes at Budd

Various colourful options at New & Lingwood

The silk facings on this robe at New & Lingwood have a skull and crossbones pattern

A short robe (or smoking jacket) with silk facings in a blue polka dot pattern at Hackett

Rudolf Beaufays

2008-09-01T11:18:00.000-07:00

Behind the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg lies a treasure trove of classic English tailoring. Rudolf Beaufays runs a vintage clothing store that out-tweeds, out-flannels and even out-tartans anything in the UK. His shop is filled to the rafters with three-piece tweed suits, shooting jackets, plus-twos and plus-fours, a huge range of vintage suits, and even some kilts. There are polo coats, Aquascutum raincoats and leather flying jackets. There's even an occasional Brooks Brothers navy blazer.

The shop was written up in Men's Vogue a while back.

For any devotee of vintage clothing or classic English style, it's a must-see in Hamburg.

Rudolf Beaufays
Büschstraße 9
Hamburg
www.rudolf-beaufays.eu

Ladage & Oelke

2008-08-29T11:05:00.000-07:00

Hamburg's grandest menswear shop is Ladage & Oelke, which exemplifies the anglophile mode of the city. It's located in a colonnade near the town hall, with several smart cafes outside.

Inside, suits and jackets are displayed in old fashioned wooden cupboards. In Style and the Man, Alan Flusser described it as "so fuddy-duddy it's charming".

The range of outerwear is well-chosen for a city close to the North Sea. Duffel coats are a speciality of the shop and there's a good range of rain coats and quilted jackets. They also have an excellent selection of umbrellas. Perfect for the drizzly weather I've experienced every time I've been to Hamburg.

The shop has good range of English shoes, with a large range of Crockett & Jones sold under Ladage & Oelke's private label and a well-edited selection of Edward Green shoes.

Neuer Wall 11
Hamburg
www.ladage-oelke.de

New Dunhill store in Mayfair

2008-08-28T11:42:00.001-07:00

Alfred Dunhill is opening a new store in London on August 30 and the builders are working furiously to get everything ready.

The shop is on Davies Street in Mayfair, just off the top of Berkeley Square, in what used to be the Duke of Westminster's London home. Dunhill promises "the ultimate in masculine luxury and retail lifestyle", offering their full range of clothing and accessories. The shop will also house a bar, private screening room and barber.

The silver lettering on the arch is, I think, a mistake. I would prefer some plain black lettering, or maybe an engraved brass plaque to the side of the archway.

Workers installing some sort of fibre optic lighting between the flagstones in the courtyard.

I'll report back after they open.

The Free and Hanseatic City

2008-08-26T15:00:00.000-07:00

The Man of Mode has returned from a short trip to Hamburg.

This city-state has one of the most impressive settings of any northern European city. It's built around two lakes: the heart of the city is clustered around the smaller Binnenalster, with the larger Außenalster extending away into the residential parts of the city.

It's a prosperous city, and quite stylish in a buttoned-up sort of way. It is a very anglophilic place, and Barbour jackets, tweeds, quilted jackets and Land Rovers are much in evidence. That might also be due to the weather, which tends to be damp and drizzly.

The city made its fortune as a trading centre, and was one of the largest members of the Hanseatic League. Even today, Hamburg remains incredibly proud of this history. It's not the "City of Hamburg"; the full name of the place is the "Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg".

Hamburg is still a major port, but containerization has meant that the old warehouse district, the Speicherstadt, hasn't been used by the major shipping lines for a long time. Instead, the neighbourhood is full of small businesses that have carved out space in the old buidings.

The area still has strong links with international trade. There are many carpet importers, most of which seem to be Iranian.

Adorable

2008-08-20T15:31:00.001-07:00

I couldn't resist posting this. It's a pair of handmade toy rabbits -- 1930s, American. Judging from the picture, they're in wonderful condition. And it's an exceptionally well-dressed gentleman rabbit.

Listed on 1st Dibs, the website for antiques dealers. Warning: they're very expensive.

A Sicilian snack

2008-08-17T15:09:00.000-07:00

The Man of Mode whipped up a large batch of risotto for lunch today, with some fresh peas found at the grocers.

There was plenty of rice left over, so I decided to try making arancini. This is street food, Sicilian style: balls of rice, usually with a savory filling, then rolled in breadcrumbs and fried. Arancini means "little oranges", and the finished product is a similar size and shape (and colour) to the fruit.

The last time I had arancini was in a down-at-heel cafe in Catania, after a slow journey from Palermo. They're a great snack.

The most common fillings in Sicily are meat (arancino con ragu) and mozzarella. I used a bit of taleggio cheese, which was left over in my fridge from another meal, and which worked nicely.

I improvised a recipe, but if you want to follow instructions, there's a decent looking recipe on the Waitrose website.

Brooks Brothers Fall 2008

2008-08-16T14:20:00.001-07:00

Brooks Brothers have rolled out their ad campaign for Fall/Winter 2008, and it's the best work I've seen from them for a long time. The black and white photographs, taken in Central Park, sum up the best things about the brand. It's all about smart city clothes, traditionally-cut suits that don't leave you worrying about the vagaries of fashion, and elegant casual gear for a weekend in town. Then add an extra large helping of big city glamour, with images of skyscrapers rising above the trees of Central Park.

It's self-consciously retro, but there's nothing wrong with that. It's a million miles away from the hideous rhinestone-studded t-shirts on sale at their Las Vegas store that I've written about previously.

The details are artfully done. The first photo above looks could have been taken any time in the past half century, with a very simply-cut suit, pocket handkerchief in a TV fold and a pair of clunky bluchers. The second shot has an alligator handbag, tweed hat, and an impromptu football game in the background. I also adore the dog on the right side of the picture. The third shot is perhaps the most cliched, but I still think it's a strong image.

As a footnote, I find it interesting that Brooks is running a big ad campaign with photos of Central Park and trumpeting their affiliation with the Central Park Conservancy. Paul Stuart, Brooks's more stylish neighbour on Madison, produced their winter catalogue last year full of photographs taken in the Park, which also had a tie-in to the Central Park Conservancy.

Hats from Lock

2008-08-16T07:50:00.000-07:00

I was wandering around Jermyn Street and St. James's today and noticed numerous people, at least half a dozen, carrying around hatboxes from Lock. Is there a big event coming up that requires hats?

Electric cars

2008-08-15T12:54:00.000-07:00

I have seen the future . . . and it's a clown car.

With oil still trading far above the $100 per barrel mark, electric cars are all the rage. While petrol fuelled hybrids like the Toyota Prius get most of the attention, there are also a few models available that just run on electricity. These cars have some major drawbacks: they are very small, they have a limited range (under 50 miles), and they must be plugged in for several hours to recharge the batteries. However, those factors are perfectly tolerable in a city car that is designed for short trips around town.

These little 2-seaters may look a bit clownish, but they're quite practical for a short commute or shopping trips in central London.

Some local councils in London are promoting the use of these cars by offering free on-street parking. Electric cars are also exempt from the 8 quid a day Congestion Charge. An article in this week's Economist notes the popularity of these cars, and the efforts by local governments to encourage their use, although it comments that many of these benefits are now being cut back.

The best perk I've seen is on Berkeley Square. The City of Westminster has installed several charging points that are free to use for drivers of electric cars; drivers just pay a nominal annual fee for a key to turn on the juice. With petrol prices at record highs, I can't think of anything better than having the local government pay to power your car.

Observed in Mayfair

2008-08-14T14:37:00.000-07:00

With all the recent comments about David Hicks on the design blogs, I thought I would mention this. I was in the post office on Albemarle Street in Mayfair yesterday (which must be the poshest post office in London), and noticed the most immense parcel addressed to "Ms. India Hicks, c/o The Lady Pamela Hicks . . .".

Vintage watches go mass market

2008-08-03T07:12:00.001-07:00

There's been some comment lately on the fashion/design blogs about the vintage watch on sale at J Crew. Mrs. Blandings was one of the first to spot it: a gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual on an Oyster bracelet.

This watch was worn by the models in the catalog photographs, with a discrete note alongside that a vintage watch collection is available on the J Crew website (image below borrowed from Mrs. Blandings).

J Crew is not the only mainstream retailer going into the vintage watch business. Rugby, the cadet branch of the Ralph Lauren empire that targets a preppy, collegiate demographic, is also getting into the game. About a month ago, they announced that their East Hampton store will carry a selection of vintage watches.

Rugby is aiming a little lower than J Crew: vintage Timexes and the like on grosgrain straps (images below from the Rugby website). However, I expect this is a more promising strategy. J Crew gets to flash a classic gold Rolex in their catalog photos, but their vintage watch "collection" looks like a single item. And it has already been sold - they've taken it off the website.

Expect to see more vintage watches at J Crew, but they'll look more like the selection from Rugby. The J Crew men's concept store in Tribeca will definitely go big on this look. For women, they may mix in a few daintier cocktail watches. However, a vintage man's watch (smaller than modern watches) is just the right size for a woman to wear.

Red Bull Air Races

2008-08-02T12:49:00.001-07:00

The Red Bull Air Race World Series is an international competition for aerobatic pilots. The races are held in cities around the world, with championship points awarded for each round in a format similar to Formula 1 motor racing.

The London round was held this weekend, over the River Thames in Docklands next to the O2 (formerly known as the Millennium Dome). Qualifying rounds were held on Saturday, with the finals on Sunday.

The pilots race against the clock, flying through a slalom course of inflatable pylons. The agile, lightweight racing aircraft make extremely tight turns as they wind their way through the course. Certain slalom gates must be crossed with the aircraft wings horizontal, but others must be crossed with the aircraft in "knife angle" position, with the wings in vertical position and the wingtips pointing directly up and down.

It's a remarkable display of flying skill, with the pilots rolling the planes left and right in a split second as they weave in and out of the gates.

Dragonfly

2008-08-02T12:43:00.000-07:00

Salmorejo

2008-07-27T07:33:00.001-07:00

Now that the Man of Mode has returned to London after his travels, he is craving the flavours of Spain. And there are few better ways to cool off on a hot summer day than with a bowl of salmorejo, the wonderful cold soup from Cordoba.

It's often described as a thicker version of gazpacho, that other tomato-based cold soup from Spain. However, salmorejo is an altogether gutsier dish. You can easily turn it into a complete meal. It's usually served with some slivers of ham and a bit of crumbled hard boiled egg sprinkled on top; with some crusty bread on the side and a glass of cold fino sherry, it makes a fantastic lunch or supper.

The recipe below is pretty forgiving, and it's hard to give exact measurements. The important thing is keep tasting it as you make it, adjusting the consistency and flavour to your own tastes.

8 large tomatoes, seeded (ideally you would skin them too, but that's not really necessary)
2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
Stale bread -- roughly 1/4 of a loaf of Italian bread or similar, with the crust removed
1 or 2 tablespoons of wine or sherry vinegar
2 or 3 tablespoons of good olive oil
Sea salt
Crumbled hard boiled egg and jamon iberico to sprinkle on top

Start by soaking the bread in a little water. Then squeeze the excess water out of the bread, leaving a damp, bready pulp.

Puree the tomatoes in a blender, then add the bread, a little at a time, while continuing to puree the mixture. The consistency is very much a matter of personal preference: the bread will quickly thicken up the tomato puree, but don't make it too thick. If you add too much bread and you want to thin it back down, add a splash of cold water.

Mix in the garlic, vinegar and olive oil, and season with the sea salt. Add a little at a time and keep tasting the soup again and again until you're happy with the flavour. Continue pureeing the soup until it's smooth and completely blended.

Chill the finished soup for an hour or so in the fridge. You want it chilled through, but not ice cold. Serve in bowls and sprinkle some slivers of ham and crumbled hard boiled egg on top.

Brooks Brothers, Las Vegas

2008-07-24T01:56:00.001-07:00

I've seen some stupid things in Brooks Brothers over the years, but this takes the biscuit. The sparkly rhinestones make it all the more preposterous.

Yours for a mere $44.50 plus tax.

Hoover Dam

2008-07-24T01:50:00.000-07:00

A few pictures from a recent trip to the Hoover Dam. It's difficult to convey the sheer size of it through a photograph, at least without taking pictures from an aircraft.

A Georgian treasure in West Baltimore

2008-07-24T01:33:00.000-07:00

West Baltimore is usually associated with the urban decay and lawlessness depicted in the television series Homicide: Life on the Street and The Wire. While it's true that the area is blighted by crime and drugs, there remain a few oases of calm here in the middle of the city.

One such place is Mount Clare, a Georgian manor house standing on a hilltop in what is now Carroll Park. The house was built in 1760 by Charles Carroll, Barrister (so-called to distinguish him from several relatives of the same name). Carroll was a leading figure in Maryland in the cause for independence and went on to serve in the state senate until his death in 1783.

The house was built on Georgia Plantation, a 2,500 acre estate on the banks of the Patapsco River. It replaced an earlier wood-framed dwelling built by Carroll's father.

This handsome brick building is a good example of American Palladianism, with a classic 5-part profile and a Venetian window placed centrally above the colonaded portico.

The rear of the house has a simpler appearance, with a central pediment but without the portico. I prefer it to the front, with its stronger, cleaner lines.

Behind the house, the grounds slope down steeply towards the river.

A view from the house towards downtown Baltimore

The stables, located at the foot of the hill behind the house

Mount Clare is maintained by the Colonial Dames of America and houses a museum of decorative arts. There is an informative website at www.mountclare.org.

Market day in Cadiz

2008-07-23T02:05:00.001-07:00

Freshly-caught tuna

Tuna, looking more like a side of beef than fish

Lunch at El Faro, the place to eat fresh fish in Cadiz.

Something non-fishy -- bocaditos de bacon (small pieces of soft cheese, wrapped in bacon and fried)

Flakes of cod, lightly warmed through (practically raw) with orange slices and dressed with olive oil

Tomato stuffed with tuna salad, an old standby to make at home with canned tuna, but here made with fresh tuna from the market

A tapas crawl through Seville

2008-07-22T23:02:00.000-07:00

The Man of Mode recently visited Seville and immersed himself in the tapas culture of the city.

Seville is known for Islamic architecture, flamenco and bullfighting, but tapas are equally important in the life of the city. Eating and drinking are just as fundamental to life here as in Paris or Rome, but tapas are the best way to absorb what this city is all about.

Timing is crucial. Nothing opens until after 8pm, so have a long, late lunch, and plan to start the tapas crawl around 8.30. Also, don't stay too long in any one place. Have a drink, and two or three small dishes, then move on to the next place.

Las Teresas, on the Calle Santa Teresa in the Barrio Santa Cruz, is a good place to start the evening. It's a classic tapas bar, with hams hanging on hooks over the bar and bullfighting posters on the wall. The ham is the classic jamon iberico, from black pigs raised on acorns, and like at every tapas bar is carved fresh for every order. I recommend a media racion -- tapas menus generally offer three portion sizes, a racion (large plate), media racion (half plate) and tapa (small nibble). A fino sherry matches perfectly to the ham, the dryness of the wine nicely setting off the rich silkiness of the ham.

Next, move around the corner to Alvaro Peregil, on the Calle Mateos Gago. The guidebooks all recommend Las Columnas, a couple of doors further down the street. That's an excellent choice too, but I prefer this hole-in-the-wall. It's a tiny place, with nowhere to sit, and the menu is very short. However, the food and drink are wonderful. I highly recommend the salmorejo, a version of gazpacho originating from Cordoba, that's thickened with breadcrumbs. It's usually served with some crumbled hard boiled egg and bits of ham sprinkled on top. It's available everywhere in Seville, but it's especially rich and garlicky here.

A 10 minute walk away is Bar Alfalfa, a small, cozy place with a lively crowd of customers. The tapas here are very good value.

My best recommendation for food in Seville is Enrique Becerra, on the Calle Gamazo. There's a full restaurant that specializes in traditional Andalucian cooking, as well as a separate bar area with a tapas menu. Unless you're craving a sit-down dinner, I suggest staying in the bar. The tapas menu is more creative than the restaurant menu here, and it has the advantage of allowing you to try a variety of different dishes. The staff is friendly and helpful, and can be relied on for recommendations about what to eat and drink.

A brochette of shrimp and squid.

Elvers (baby eels), topped with a dollop of aioli, resembling little fishy spaghetti.

Finally, on to El Rinconcillo, the oldest bar in Seville which dates from the 1670s. It's a 15 minute walk from the centre of town. The late night crowd there is very mixed -- well-dressed Sevillianos out for a nightcap, 20-somethings starting the evening with a glass of wine and a snack before moving to the next place, and tourists drawn to one of the most atmospheric bars in town.

I prefer the back room, with the usual hams hanging from the ceiling and barrels of sherry lined up behind the bar.

The front room feels more modern (practically into the 20th century), with stained glass windows fronting onto the street and art nouveau shelving lined with wine bottles.

Service is old school. The gruff waiters keep track of your tab (is that the third or fourth glass of fino?) by jotting on the top of the bar with grease pencil.

Macro photography

2008-07-22T22:44:00.000-07:00

The Man of Mode tries his hand at some macro photography. Here are a couple of examples, taken in the gardens of the Huntington Library, Pasadena, California.

Royal Ascot

2008-06-22T04:20:00.000-07:00

As Ascot week wraps up, here are a few photographs from Ladies' Day. I've been asked by a friend to write a posting for her blog about Ascot, so there will be lots more pictures there. I'll put up a link once everything's up on her blog. In the meantime, here's a little taster.

Update: the full post can be seen at http://pigtown-design.blogspot.com/2008/06/our-correspondent-on-royal-ascot.html

A better way to commute

2008-06-11T14:47:00.000-07:00

After enduring the daily commute to Canary Wharf on the Tube, I recently discovered a much better way to travel. A fast boat service connects Docklands with central London, with departures every 20 minutes during the rush hour.

I can't imagine a more pleasant way to travel home on a warm sunny day.

Leaving Canary Wharf

River police headquarters

HMS Belfast, with Tower Bridge opening in the background for a tall ship

City Hall

Tate Modern

Ian Fleming

2008-05-28T14:34:00.000-07:00

"The scent and smoke and sweat of a casino are nauseating at three in the morning."
Casino Royale, 1953

Ian Fleming, born May 28, 1908

Crossing Brooklyn Ferry

2008-05-27T23:25:00.000-07:00

May 24 marked the 125th anniversary of the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge in 1883.

John and Washington Roebling's bridge was the first fixed crossing between the cities of New York and Brooklyn. Before then, the only way to cross the East River was by ferry.

The bridge is still used by millions of commuters. When I worked downtown and lived in Brooklyn Heights, I regularly worked late and took a cab home. Crossing the bridge at night was always a joy, leaving behind the towers of lower Manhattan and seeing the string of lights vaulting across the river to Brooklyn.

Fireworks at the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge in 1883 (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

The Gherkin

2008-05-20T14:32:00.000-07:00

I had the good fortune to attend a party on the top floor of 30 St. Mary Axe last night. Better known as the "Gherkin", this building is the most distinctive recent addition to the London skyline. There is a bar on the top floor (the 40th floor), which is normally open only to tenants in the building. However, the space can be rented for private events.

The top-floor bar, with a 360 degree view over London.

Looking westwards.

Resails

2008-05-18T12:27:00.001-07:00

With plastic shopping bags being deeply frowned upon these days, it's important to find an environmentally friendly alternative for carrying home the groceries from the supermarket. If the bag is made from recycled materials, so much the better.

Re-Sails has come up with the terrific idea of turning old sailcloth into a range of tote bags and duffel bags. The bags are made of brightly coloured sailcloth, often with racing numbers or printed lettering still visible.

The bags are available from Re-Sails' stores in (where else?) Newport and Annapolis. The complete range is also available online at www.resails.com.

On personal taste and button-down shirts

2008-05-18T11:28:00.000-07:00

"All of us draw social inferences from the way people dress. In this, fishermen and farmers are just as snobbish as debutantes and hippies. And there is no one, however regal, however humble, who is not put off by some detail of dress he personally dislikes. I well remember the morning that one of President Kennedy's aides came in wearing a button-down shirt, an item that started in America in the very early 1930s as an Ivy League fad. It remained so until a few years ago but was swiftly abandoned when it spread to bond salesmen and airline executives and then to Midwesterners, and then to cattle ranchers in convention, and finally to Englishmen. It is still retained by ageing country-club types who have not noticed that they suddenly look old-fashioned. 'For Heaven's sake,' said Kennedy to his bewildered aide, 'take off that shirt. Nobody wears those things any more, except Chester Bowles and Adlai.'"

Alistair Cooke, October 1966

Going Dutch

2008-04-13T04:13:00.000-07:00

The Dutch menswear chain Suit Supply has arrived in London, with a brash, modern approach to selling suits. They've taken Ozwald Boateng's old space on Vigo Street at the foot of Savile Row, just opposite Gieves. In keeping with the former tenant, they're a sharp contrast to the traditional world of the Row.

Suit Supply isn't trying to compete with the Row. The quality and prices are in line with other high street stores - around GBP 230 for a suit. They also offer made-to-measure for about GBP 300-400.

However, their marketing sets them apart from the other UK retailers. They have the high-profile location just off Savile Row. The store is smart, modern and well-lit. They run a very flashy website: www.suitsupply.co.uk

They also put their alterations tailor front and centre in the store, with an "airport departure board" announcing when customers can pick up their clothes after having the waist let out and the trousers hemmed.

Happy 80th Birthday

2008-04-12T02:37:00.000-07:00

Happy birthday to the wonderful Tom Lehrer, who turned 80 this week.

Sunflowers

2008-03-30T11:02:00.001-07:00

A reminder of warm, sunny days in Provence.

Ralph Lauren takes over the world

2008-03-19T13:59:00.000-07:00

. . . or at least one block of Madison Avenue, between 71st and 72nd.

The entire block is lined with various outposts of the RL empire. The only exception is St. James' Episcopal Church, and even that fits perfectly into the WASP, Upper East Side world of RL.

But Ralph is about to build an even bigger presence on Madison.

Just across the street from the Rheinlander Mansion, RL's HQ, sits a low rise, square-ish building that is currently home to the Ralph Lauren Sport line. RL is on the verge of demolishing that building and erecting a four storey Beaux Arts palace. The NY Landmarks Preservation Commision has given preliminary signoff on the building and RL hopes to start construction work soon.

1950s and today

William F. Buckley, Jr.

2008-03-09T13:25:00.000-07:00

A belated remembrance of William F. Buckley, Jr.

NY Times obituary

Bobby Short

2008-03-09T13:16:00.000-07:00

The incomparable Bobby Short, performing at the White House.

Getting shirty

2008-03-06T12:57:00.000-08:00

Ignore all of the touts on Nathan Road in Kowloon, offering "copy watches" and 24-hour suits. For some of the best tailoring in Hong Kong, head straight to WW Chan.

WW Chan is located in Burlington House, just upstairs from the better-known Sam's Tailor (of which perhaps more in a future post). They're on the second floor, which requires navigating a firetrap of a stairwell. Don't be put off by the surroundings. As soon as you make it through the front door of Chan's premises, you'll find a well-appointed tailor's shop. Bolts of cloth are stacked on shelves along the walls, and cutters work at long tables with shears and paper patterns.

Time was short on this trip, and unfortunately there wasn't time to bespeak a suit. Much to their credit, Chan wouldn't even consider putting through a rush job on a suit. They offered to squeeze in the necessary number of fittings in the time I had available, but they would have to mail the finished garment to me.

I decided to order some shirts instead. There was just enough time for Chan to finish the shirts before I left Hong Kong, allowing me to pick them up on the way back to the airport.

Most of my experience with bespoke shirts is in London, but I found the process at Chan to be more exacting than at most of Jermyn Street's best. Chan uses an individual paper pattern to cut their shirts; they also offer a proper fitting at which they adjust the pattern.

The process begins with taking detailed measurements.

After taking my measurements, I then proceed to pick out some fabrics. I choose a couple of bold gingham checks, in mid and dark blue, both from the Thomas Mason silverline books. I also browse through a fantastic selection of linens, which includes good range of stripes and patterns. I pick out a lightweight linen in a pale blue Prince of Wales check.

I return a couple of days later for a fitting. Chan has made up one of my shirts with a complete body and sleeves, but with sample collar and cuffs made of a rough cotton. A few adjustments are made (for those looking carefully, the sleeves are a bit too short here).

Here, the collar receives some close scrutiny. We debate the angle of the collar and end up making the spread slightly wider.

Another couple of days later, I return to Nathan Road to pick up the finished shirts. I try one on, just to be sure that I'm happy with the adjustments they made. Everything is good, so I pick up the shirts and head for the airport. Chan will keep my pattern on file, so I can order more shirts with a simple phone call.
.

I highly recommend Chan for shirts. The fit and quality of workmanship are the equal or better of any shirts I've ordered in London, and the Thomas Mason fabrics are excellent.

W.W. Chan & Sons Ltd.
A2, 2/F, Burlington House
94 Nathan Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong

Phone: (852) 2366 9738 or 2366 2634

2008-03-01T10:15:00.001-08:00

The Man of Mode has just returned from Hong Kong. Upcoming posts will describe some of his sartorial and culinary experiences there.

Lost and found images

2008-02-01T14:53:00.001-08:00

LZ 129 Hindenburg flies over the Olympic Stadium, Berlin, 1936.

Photograph found in an antique shop in Salzburg.

In the round

2008-01-31T12:26:00.003-08:00

Most rooms have the shape of a shoebox: four walls and a simple rectangular floorplan. These are simple to build, with lots of flat surfaces and right angles. However, very occasionally, architects use a little bit of . . . circular thinking.

By far the most famous example of a round room is shown above. The Oval Office is a grand space, over 35 feet long, with three large windows behind the President's desk and a fireplace at the other end of the room. The room is neoclassical in style, in the standard Georgian/Federal mode. However, the room is not original to the White House; it was built in 1909 in the newly constructed West Wing.

Circular rooms tend to be grand, even ostentatious, spaces. And there are few interiors more grand than the entrance hall of Eltham Palace. Part of the finest art deco residential interior in Britain, the elaborate wood paneling and marquetry and the light-filled dome make this room a favourite of Hollywood location scouts. This room requently appears in film, standing in for nightclubs, ballrooms and even the first class lounge of an ocean liner.

The art deco style seems to work particularly well for circular rooms. Here's an example from Location Works, a UK agency for film and photography locations.

And another modernist room, designed by Burnham Hoyt in 1938 (from the Conde Nast store).

Whatever the style, the decision to build a round room is always a little unusual and extravagant. In 1929, Harvey Ladew, heir to a manufacturing fortune, bought a farmhouse in the hunt country of Maryland, just north of Baltimore. As he set about renovating his new home, he was trying to decide where to put an oval Chippendale partners desk. A friend suggested that he build a room around the desk, and Ladew did just that, creating a stunning oval library. Alas, I have been unable to find a picture of the library, but it's possible to visit Ladew's house, along with its elaborate topiary garden -- more details can be found at www.ladewgardens.com.

The Oyster Bar

2008-01-20T04:07:00.000-08:00

Deep under Grand Central Station lies one of the best lunch spots in New York. Hang up your coat, sit down at the counter and order a half dozen Bluepoints and a glass of Sancerre.

The restaurant opened in 1913 and has been open ever since, serving generations of train passengers, Midtown office workers and tourists. It is also well-known for its splendid vaulted ceiling, designed by Rafael Guastavino, with its distinctive herringbone tile pattern.

The menu is enormous, but it's best to stick to the basics. The oyster pan roast (also available with shrimp or other fish) is a classic, with oysters cooked in cream and melted butter. There's a huge selection of freshly-shucked oysters: local Bluepoints from Long Island, Wellfleets from up the coast off Massachusetts, Kumamotos from the West Coast and imported Belons. There's also plenty of other grilled and fried fish (and a couple of token meat offerings) if you don't fancy the shellfish.

Or you can have what I normally get for lunch - a steaming hot bowl of New England clam chowder (with extra oyster crackers) and a glass of India Pale Ale.